© Richard Randall

Caribbean

Sundries

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Blantyre

Blantyre is the economic capital of Malawi.

Learn

Society of Malawi is a great place to visit if you like to read up on the history of a place. Situated above the Mandala House (which houses La Caverna Art Gallery and cafe), the library and archives are open weekdays from 9 to 12 and the last Thursday of the month from 6-7:30PM. www.societyofmalawi.org

Budget

Vendors are all over the streets in Blantyre. They sell a range of food items from fried chips, chicken, etc. to hard boiled eggs, bread (mostly milk scone variety and yellow buns), biscuits (locally made from Universal Industries), and so on. Plenty of ripe fruit and vegetables are also readily available for a good price. On the whole, however, street food is nowhere near as tasty as many other African countries tend to offer.

Mid-range

• Alem Ethiopian Restaurant, in the heart of the busy city Alem offers Malawian favorites (like nsima with rice, chicken and chips, etc.) as well as authentic Ethiopian dishes served in bowls straight from Ethiopia. Ethiopian coffee, served with cloves and salt, is a must-have for any coffee lover. The owners, friendly Ethiopians themselves, have been running the restaurant for over ten years.

• CafÈ Mexicana, located on Glyn Jones Avenue just past Kabula Hill Road (heading towards Namiwawa and Chilimoni). Site formerly known as Christines. Opened in December 2005, this ethnic favorite of North Americans now offers American-style 'Mexican' specialties like the Seafood Enchilada, Fajitas, homemade Nachos with a nice mango salsa, and some of the most rich desserts available in the city. A coffeeshop, open during hours when the restaurant is not, complements the restaurant/bar. Of special note is the play area for children, making it very child-friendly. Phone: 09216180, 08546808, 01621987

• Chez Maky, a delightful out-of-the-way respite from the city, is a great place to get together with business associates or a few friends (space is available for conferences). Situated on a multi-level wooden deck protected from rain, the proprietor is a delightful host originally from Cameroon who makes everyone feel right at home. Grilled meat is particularly well-done here (some of the best in the country) and real coffee with desserts are a nice addition to any meal. Located on Kabula Hill Road past Seventh Day Adventist Hospital (just go past the hospital, which will be on your right, and the road almost will end right at the entrance to the residence/restaurant). Open every day from 8 to 5. Phone: 09203029, 01622124

• Greens, rumored to be among the best in town for grilled meat, braii style. Warning to families: the restaurant opens late and will not allow children.

• Hungry Lion, found in the Shoprite complex opposite Chichiri Stadium, is a favorite with Malawians because of the simple chicken and chips menu it offers. A franchise, this location is often so pitiful (unless you only want an ice cream cone) that some visitors who don't like the long wait or poor operation in general have stopped giving it a go altogether.

• Nandos, a popular destination for anyone traveling by minibus but a headache to those driving their own vehicle, this is the popular franchise from South Africa that blends Lemon Herb or Peri-Peri sauces to perfection. The setting is very busy, surrounded by noisy vendors, but once inside you can forget your surroundings and enjoy pita wraps, chicken and chips, pine nut burgers, and more. An adult meal (children's also available) will cost about about 700 kwacha ($5-7).

Splurge

• 21 Grill, at Ryalls Hotel.

• Bombay Palace, opposite Ryalls Hotel, offers delicious authentic Indian cuisine. Reservations are recommended as it can be busy on weekend evenings.

• L'Hostaria, in a new location (as of 2004), is THE place to go if authentic Italian is your thing. With plenty of space for hosting special parties, the food is very good with service to match.

Sleep

Budget

• Doogles

• Kabula Lodge, has tidy rooms (2 or 3 beds) from 5 US$ (or Kwacha equivalent). Kitchen is available to use or meals can be ordered. Run by friendly Malawians. (May 2005)

Splurge

• Le Meridien Mount Soche

• Ryalls Hotel

• Victoria

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