© Richard Randall

Colombo

After rather a long winded route I arrived at Bandaranaike International Airport at Katunayake, about 20 miles from central Colombo. Having only cabin baggage I got through the formalities pretty quick, and changed up some money before the queues started. It seemed I had chosen rather a bad week to arrive, as the Asia World Cricket Cup was in fall swing, and most of the hotels in central Colombo were fully booked up. After playing hard to get with a few agents and pondering my next move over a much need cigarette, I settled for a hotel room somewhat south of the city centre in Mount Lavinia. An hours cab ride later I arrived at Tropic Inn. Not a bad place to start my trip. Air con, a restaurant, and most important of all clean and quite. After a shower and a bite to eat, I put my head down for a few hours sleep. It was still early so I could wake up just after lunch and sort out my onward travel arrangements. Which is just what I did. Luck would have it, that there was a tuk-tuk stand just across from the Hotel, so after prolonged negotiations I got a ride into town. First port of call was the railway station to book a ticket up to Kandy. I could not get a ticket for the next morning as the train was fully booked, unless I wanted to stand all the way (no thanks), so I settled for the day after. This was going to give me 2 days in Colombo to have a look round.

I needed to stretch my limbs a little after being cramped up on 2 planes for over 12 hours, I decided to stroll into the downtown area of Colombo. I needed to pick up a local sim card for my mobile phone as I wanted to call my beautiful wife back home, and a cold beer would not go amiss either. The central area is called Fort, and is a small island connected by four bridges to the mainland. Armed soldiers and check points all over the place. Guarding against terrorist attacks from the Tamil Tigers. There was still a lot of damaged buildings in the centre cordoned area from a previous bomb attack. I managed to track down a sim card, for about $18 that included $5 of calls. Picked up a couple of top up cards as well. Not a bad start to the day. Now for that beer. Sim card and train ticket safely tucked away I headed for the Ceylon Intercontinental hotel and their bar. Still fresh-ish off the plane I still looked clean and smart enough to pop in. Seeing the bar was closed but drinks where being served in the not too attractive lobby, I asked if they could open the bar up for me, which they did. A comfy seat and a cold beer later, it was time to tackle sorting the phone and adding the credits to it. Time for another beer. Phone sorted and calls made, I made my excuses and left. Tuk-Tuk'ed back to my hotel, to do a little reading up on Kandy, and also to think about what I was going to do for the next whole day to Colombo.

It being the start of the Esala Perahera in Kandy, I made use of the phone and made a booking for two nights at the Queens Hotel. Accommodation and travel arranged for the next leg of my trip and now being well rested I headed out for dinner. A 20 minute tuk-tuk ride took me to the Galle Face Hotel. This is where I had planned to stay when I first arrived, but it was booked solid. Still I did not have any trouble getting a table on the terrace over looking the the sea. It being my first night in a new country and being of an adventurous nature, I ordered burger and chips! I washed it down with a couple of beers whilst I watched the sunset. Up bright and early the next morning (9am, that's early for me), I headed down stairs for breakfast. Not being one for a heavy start to the day I settled for a piece of fruit and a few cups of black coffee accompanied by a couple of cigarettes.

Now to explore Colombo. A short walk brought me to the public beach. It looked o.k. But there was no way I was going in the water, not with the pollution pouring into it from the city, besides it was monsoon season and the waves were a little on the energetic side for my taste. The only surf that is for me, is the clothes washing powder kind. Walked round for an hour or so and ended up at he Mount Lavina Hotel, time for another coffee break. A nice looking place, good terrace area and pool. Spent a happy hour getting some sun on my pasty skin. Not sure how to spend the rest of my day I got a Taxi along Galle Road into central Colombo, had a look round a few of the shops, got a snack from a road side vendor. Then tuk-tuk hopped back down Galle Road stopping off here and there and walking parts of it. Lots of shops along the entire length of it selling all manner of goods. Even a shopping centre (Mall), and a McDonalds fast food joint. Window shopping fast losing its glitz I headed back to the hotel for a shower and a siesta. Having an early start the next day I sorted my hotel bill out, and arranged a taxi to the train station for 5am the next morning. Now time to feed the inner man, well not quite, but dinner was on the cards. Having read about the Cricket Club Cafe, and it being the Asia Cup, there seemed to be little choice than to head there for dinner. The interior was all cricket memorabilia in the restaurant. Funny that! I ordered Steak and Ale Pie with veg, (really getting into the swing of eating Sri Lankan food), and can honestly say it was on of the best I've ever had. Only a one course kind of guy I headed to the bar after my meal to finish my drink. I needed an early night so did not linger there long. A fast trip (white knuckle) back to the hotel, to shower and pack for the next morning. Up at the crack of dawn next morning for the taxi ride to the train station. Oops, seems the driver was going down a one way street the wrong way. Police car stopped us. Paper changed hands, and we were on our way again. Out of the taxi into the station and on the train before the touts could even clock me.

Kandy

The train ride up to Kandy is meant to be very scenic and beautiful, but at that time of the morning, my ability to appreciate such things is very low. All I can say is that the seats in second class were comfortable, and I was well rested when the train pulled into Kandy station. A short taxi ride took me to the door of the Queens Hotel. A few minutes to check in and I was shown a few rooms I could choose from. I opted for the one that would give me a view of the Esala Perahra at no extra cost. $80 per night seemed a good deal, considering the ones at the front were going for $200+ per night. I had a good view (for the price). Unpacked, changed clothes, and walked across the road to the Temple of the Tooth. It being the Esala Perahera, you leave your footwear outside, it was thronged five people deep, and only having a very old a tatty pair of sandals I just left them on the side like a lot of other people and in I went. The Dalada Maligawa (Temple of the Tooth), is where the Sacred Tooth Relic of the Buddha is kept. The temple is a larger complex with many shrines inside. It is easy to spend an hour or two walking round, and even with all the crowds the are still places to sit and rest. During the Esala Perahera the grounds outside the temple are teaming with Elephants and their trainers. The Esala Perehera is a procession of jugglers, drummers, dancers, acrobats, and hundreds of Elephants, through the street of Kandy. The Esala Perahera starts at about 7pm and lasts for 10 nights, the last few days the route gets longer and more and more people spill onto the street to watch it. There is lots of seating set up on the pavements, and you can rent a plastic chair for the night to watch the procession go by, but even at the start of the week the chairs cost about $15 and go up to about $ 45-50 for the last night. Accommodation prices all rise as the week progresses. Being about four or five times the normal rate for the last three nights of the Esala Perahera. That aside it is money well spent, and is an amazing spectacle to watch. There is also enough to do in Kandy and the surrounding area to fill up your days until the procession starts at night. There is no alcohol served during the ten days, but hotels will let you order it in your room and I also heard of a place on the far side of the lake that served it up in teapots. Afternoon tea for two anyone! There are a good number of places to stay in Kandy, with something to meet all budgets. The town is also well stocked with restaurants so there is never a need to go hungry.

Caribbean

Sundries

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